The best afternoon of the year



This text was sent at 4:50 p.m. yesterday afternoon by one of our photographers. He had just spent a few hours in the water, pulling along the sand line of Snapper Rocks inside Greenmount – a surf area that in those hours had gone from being “very very good” to complete on triple -One day of the year kine.

It happened to coincide with the presence of a few hundred of the best surfers in the world, from local world champion superstars (Joel Parkinson) to bright youngsters from home (Lungi Slabb) to a stack of super hot kids everywhere. elsewhere on the planet, all in town for the Challenger event this coming weekend.

Lungi Slabb, going way back in the womb on this afternoon bomb. Sequel: Andrew Shield

“I’m surfed,” Joel told us. “I’m almost glad it’s starting to fade a bit.”

A few weeks ago, the place had started to drive him a little crazy: “You need a rest from anywhere, I think, and I needed it.” We haven’t traveled for so long, and no matter where you surf on a daily basis, you need a break once in a while.

“But you see so many good waves on this shore, you just have to go back and get one.”

So he jumped in. And: “The waves I saw last night were incredible. It was up there with the days of all time. Not big but the best shaped waves you’ve ever seen.”

You exhaust it, then you bend down. Jai Glindeman, doing just that. Photo: Shield

My God. Photo: Swilly

Lungi just got home in time for that. “I was coming back from inside Australia with my family, going up to Glen Innes and checking it on my phone,” he says. “I said, ahh, maybe we should go back! I thought I was going to miss it. »

He did it for Monday afternoon, then yesterday, and thinks he surfed for 12 hours on both arvos.

Yesterday it came down just after the tide reversed around lunch time. “I was going to paddle to Greenmount but saw Jay Phillips on the beach, and he said Snapper was good, there were bombs behind the rock. So I went over there.

Lungi remembers Joel and Nick Vasicek being there before him. “This set came, Parko went first and Vasa went second, and I was there all alone. I took this one and shot real deep, and he spat while I was in. Programming was screaming!

“Joel and Vasa’s waves came through so I was left alone for about 20 minutes, that was pretty good.”

Even more goodness. Photo: Shield

The Hawaiian style goes well with these waves. Bettylou Sakura Johnson, revels in it. Photo: Swilly

The women lit this joint. “They’re so confident,” Parko says of the long term. “Yesterday arvo they were coming out behind the rock and if they wanted one they got one.” Anne dos Santos, get one. Photo: Shield

Great place to watch. Mitch Crews (hoodie), Rod Campi (right) and crew on the arvo check above Greenmount. Photo: Swilly

The first cracker behind the rock of Lungi. You know it’s good when it spits out and you’re still there. Next: Shield

And if you have knee pain. I have G again, hot anyway. Photo: Swilly

I just arrived in time. Crosby Colapinto, out of 15 degree SoCal water and into the golden bath. Photo: Shield

For a visitor with a few chops, the whole thing is a bit wildly liberating. You pick up speed, you do a big carved turn, then… what?? “Can I do it again? ” Yes you can. Pauline Ado, warming up. Photo: Shield

Two worlds in 200 meters. View of Duranbah around the corner from the Snapper take-off area. Photo: Swilly

On the other side of the continent, the male CT crew was half drowned by 15-foot Margaret River firecrackers. In Vicco a lot of people were gearing up for a really nice Wednesday morning of clean and fun waves. In much of NSW, many of us were just happy to see the sun rise for the second day in a row.

But out there in South Goldie, on a golden afternoon, the wonders of nature were fully revealed.

Joel at home. Suite: Swilly

Senior Forecaster Ben Macartney explains how the stars aligned:

“It was the effect of the new longer range mid-period swell coming out of the SW Pacific behind the shorter and earlier period pulse of the past few days. It was coming closer, but that pulse had a bit more range and a bit more energy, which allowed it to push further into the bay. It combined with the southern light and the changing tide to form the perfect conditions yesterday afternoon. There are more of these mid-period pulses to come, but the recovery sending them is slowly moving away from us, which means there will be gradual declines in size and consistency with each pulse over the next few months. days. ”

Lotus swell distribution chart showing the source of this mid-period action: the orange-red sea surface beyond New Zealand. Note the next pulse (in yellow) extending south into Queensland.

Speaking of that crazy sandbar: Watch live on Rainbow’s excellent camera angle

And for a look into the future: Take a look at the eight day Gold Coast swell direction chart

More from The Endless East: So begins the story


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